A spilt low down on a large camellia. Branches that leave the trunk at a sharp angle like this are prone to split.

Gardening Basics: Simply Put
Broken Limbs & Pruning Hints

When you walk through your yard or garden after the snow melts, you are likely to see damage to your shrubs from the snow load, especially on evergreen plants which hold more of the snow.

Branches may have torn completely off of the plant, or may be broken but still attached. Any obviously broken branches that are still attached should be removed from the plant. They should be cut back to undamaged wood on the larger branch to which they are attached, or back to the trunk. If the branch has fallen away completely leaving a stub, then the stub should be removed. Pruning of small branches is not difficult, but there is a “right way” to do it so that the wound heals more rapidly.

There are plenty of easily accessible brochures on the web about pruning, and the Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center has some videos. Here are some places to start: (from the University of Maryland; Purdue University and the University of Minnesota).

(Pay attention to the pruning technique near the end of the “large trees” video, especially shot of the branch collar. People tend to want to prune back flush to the trunk of the tree or shrub, but that is incorrect. The video shows the correct way.)

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Creating a Houseplant Container Garden

Posted February 17th, 2010. Filed under House Plants How To

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Creating a Houseplant Container Garden with Randy Best. Time: 1 p.m. Fee: $25.

Randy will explain what to keep in mind when combining houseplants to create a beautiful container garden, and then assist you as you put together your own.

(Fee includes all the supplies for a houseplant garden plus a $5 coupon.)

Location: Behnke’s Beltsville Garden Center. Participants must register and pay in advance by calling (301) 937-1100, or stopping by the Beltsville store. Snow date: Saturday, February 27

Good Source of Information

Posted February 3rd, 2010. Filed under Gardening Basics: Simply Put How To

For answers to your gardening questions, try HGIC, more properly known as the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center.

The Cooperative Extension Service was born from the land grant college system, as a way for universities to get information on nutrition, gardening and home economics to small town and rural families and the latest scientific agricultural information to teachers, farmers and nursery owners. Over the years, Extension has been invaluable as a source of information through brochures and classes, and most recently, through the internet.

The Home and Garden Information Center was developed to offer an efficient way of answering questions from an increasingly urban population. HGIC staff, all of whom are Certified Professional Horticulturists, answer questions from gardeners via telephone and email. The website is excellent, with many free online publications, others that may be ordered, ( including the newly updated Master Gardener Handbook), and self-led discovery of plant/pest problems under ‘plant diagnostics’.

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How to Handle your Hosta

Posted June 29th, 2009. Filed under How To Perennials

hosta-So-Sweet
Behnkes Banks on ‘Shade Aristocrats’

The large, coarse leaves of most hostas tend to break up the monotony found in many landscape designs.

With various sizes, colors, light requirements, foliage shapes and textures, it is possible to fit an easy-to-grow hosta into almost any landscape situation.

When to Plant
Hostas can be planted in this area from March through November.

Where to Plant
Plant hostas where the proper shade conditions exist. Blues lose their color in sun, so they look their best with at least 50% shade. Golds tolerate sun quite well but should be shaded from the mid-day sun. Most hostas prefer dappled shade throughout the day. The soil should drain well and still be able to retain moisture.

hosta-Sieboldiana-ElegansHow to Plant
Dig bed for hostas 12 to 18 inches deep. Make a soil mixture of one third each existing soil, fine pine bark and organic matter such as peat moss, dehydrated manure or garden compost. Loosen root system using a garden cultivator and set plant in bed so top of root ball is even with or slightly higher than garden soil level. A handful of an organic fertilizer such as Plant-tone may be added to the backfill. Firm the plant in and water slowly and thoroughly until the water puddles around the plant. When water has soaked in , a mulch of shredded hardwood or pine bark 1 to 2 inches deep should be applied.

Long Term Care
Water is the most important requirement for hostas, especially the first year or two after planting. We suggest 3 to 5 gallons per week per plant if there is not sufficient rainfall. After the first 2 years, hostas have developed good root systems, and can withstand considerable drought. Hostas can thrive amazingly well with no further fertilizer, but an occasional side dressing of slow-release organic fertilizer in midsummer proves to be quite rewarding. In autumn, after foliage has died from frosts, the leaves should be trimmed off.

Trouble Shooting
The main problem with hostas is slugs and snails. These pests prefer moist, dark areas, feeding mostly on the soft, new, immature growth. Sanitation and a proper watering program are quite effective in controlling them.

Remove debris that provides hiding places and water only in the morning so plants are dry at sunset. Slug bait is also very effective in providing control. Manufacturers’ instructions and recommendations should always be followed with these products. Many of the new varieties of hostas are being bred for more pest resistance. Also, it’s nice to know that the older a plant gets, the more pest resistant it becomes.

Now that you know how to plant and maintain your hostas, sit back and watch them grow.

Fall for Chrysanthemums

Posted September 2nd, 2008. Filed under How To Perennials

by Kevin O’Toole, Artist and Horticulturist

Chrysanthemums, originally from the Orient, are now prized the world over for their colorful blooms in fall. The mum has been woven into Asian culture for hundreds if not thousands of years and has long been the national flower of Japan. In the United States mums first became widely available in the early part of the twentieth century.

They provide glorious color for the garden throughout autumn and are available in a wide range of colors, with many variations within each hue. The name chrysanthemum is derived from the Greek language and means “gold flower”. While many varieties are still in the yellow-gold range, red, orange, white, purple, and pink flowers are also common. And if the colors weren’t enough to choose from, the flowers come in many different shapes and sizes. By planting a variety of mums with early-, mid- and late-season bloom times you can have an outstanding array of colors and textures from the end of August into November. In addition, mums are long-lasting cut flowers.

Commercially available mums can be divided into two distinct groups, namely “forced mums” and garden (hardy) mums. Forced mums are sold in full bloom no matter what time of year it is. They typically have single daisy-like blooms or cushion-shaped flowers. Forced mums come in exotic shapes such as spider, with delicate long arching petals, or quill with long hollow petals in a spiked shape, or spoon with blooms made up of many petals shaped like long spoons. Garden or hardy mums are available at nurseries in late summer and fall, and usually begin to bloom toward the end of August and finish up with the first heavy frost. They come in a wide range of colors but reds, oranges and yellows are most common. Hardy mums commonly have single daisy-like blooms, cushion style, pom-pom or small button style blooms, and are rarely available in the delicate long-petaled blooms more typical of the forced mums.

Mums are photoperiodic. This means they will only begin to set buds and come into flower naturally during the fall when the number of daylight hours decrease and periods of darkness increase. Forced mums can be bought in full bloom at anytime during the year because they are grown under controlled conditions and have been forced into bloom by the grower.

Several months before they are ready to be brought to market the grower will begin to increase the number of hours per day that the plants are in total darkness. Through experience and a little luck, the grower is able to bring the entire mum crop into bloom at the precise time he needs to sell them. The mum varieties that are most often used in the floral industry require 1 to 2 more months of long nights than the hardy mums that we typically plant in our gardens in the mid-Atlantic region.

If left to their own devices in an outdoor environment, forced mums would not even have a chance to set buds before they would be killed back by the first heavy frost. Garden mums require only 1 to 2 months of long dark nights to set buds and bloom, so are perfectly able to put on an incredible floral display before the first killing frosts of winter arrive.

Several years ago Behnke Nurseries began offering Belgium mums, amazing garden mums resulting from years of hybridizing and research done by Dirk Peters. These are note-worthy plants for several reasons, not least of which is the fact that they are literally covered with hundreds or even thousands of blossoms at a time. Most garden mums have rather brittle stems, and it is not uncommon to break a stem or two during transport. Belgian mums have been breed for durability and have remarkably flexible stems, making them particularly easy to transport from the nursery. Look for many new varieties and colors that we are offering this fall.

Small mums or cuttings can be planted in early to late spring but will require a great deal of “pinching” and care to achieve the dense mounded form and high bud count that is typical of the mums found in early fall at Behnke’s. The new growth tip of each stem has to be pinched or clipped back several times during the growing season or they will surely become tall and leggy with much fewer blooms.

Plant mums in late summer and throughout the fall when the selection is at its best. If you are interested in overwintering your mums you should plant earlier rather than later, at least six to eight weeks before the first killing frost in your area, so they have a chance to develop a strong root system. If your only goal is to have a spectacular fall floral display in your garden, grow your mums as annuals. Plant them when they are in full bloom, and remove them when they die back after the first heavy frost. Choose a sunny location with adequate drainage — mums will not tolerate “wet feet.”

Heavy clay soils will need to be amended with a generous amount of compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss. Plant them carefully. Remove them from their pots and gently score (or rake) the rootballs to free the roots. Place them in the ground, taking care to plant them no deeper than they were in their pots. Mums have surface roots and will suffocate if planted too deeply. Water with a transplant fertilizer, such as Bonide Plant Starter Solution ®, to stimulate root growth.

Most gardeners today suffer from a lack of space and dispose of garden mums once they have passed their peak bloom. However, if you have plenty of space, you might try to overwinter your mums. You can move them in the spring if they are taking up a prime color location. Garden mums will be content to pass the summer in a large vegetable garden or any sunny spot out of the way.

After they bloom, remove the faded blooms, but don’t cut the stems back. Don’t try to move them at that point, even if you don’t want them to stay where they are through the next growing season. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil can heave plants out of the ground, exposing their roots to the elements. Newly-transplanted mums are especially vulnerable to heaving. Having well-established plants, or a layer of straw, pine boughs, or other springy material applied over the plants in late fall will help to minimize this problem. Lightweight mulching material will allow good air circulation, which is important.

When growth resumes in the spring, carefully clear away the mulch and remove any dead foliage. Now is the time to move them to a summer home, if necessary. Replant the clumps in good quality soil, which drains well -this is essential for healthy mums. We recommend a dose of transplant fertilizer to stimulate root growth.

Mums, being surface feeders, appreciate fertilizer applied as a top dressing. About the end of May, scratch a granular fertilizer for flowering plants (such as FlowerTone ®) into the soil around each plant. Apply granular plant food every four or five weeks till August or supplement with water-soluble fertilizer throughout the late spring and early summer to encourage branching and bud formation.