Chokeberry – Aronia

Aronia melanocarpa Autumn Magic

One of those plants that really should have a better name, this native flowering shrub gives you great multi-season interest.

In spring, clusters of white flowers attract all sorts of pollinators. The flowers develop into berries later in the season. As you might expect, Red Chokeberry has red berries; Black Chokeberry has purple-black berries.

Leaves are glossy green in the summer and become glowing shades of red, scarlet, orange and rich burgundy in fall. The bark is a nice smooth gray and not unattractive in winter.

Aronia melanocarpa Viking

Aronia melanocarpa is known as Black Chokeberry, and is the earlier of the two to ripen fruit, usually as early as mid-July. Birds also seem to favor this species, as the berries are typically gone within several weeks of ripening. Fall foliage tends to be on the burgundy to red scale, and the plant doesn’t spread as vigorously. The variety in stock now is ‘Viking,’ which is typical of the species at about 3-6’ tall and potentially twice as wide. Fruits are edible and supposedly a good source of Vitamin C, but they are bitter and astringent when raw. Try sweetening with sugar and use as a jelly or jam for they are rich in pectin; you can also mix them in with sweeter fruit juices or syrups.

Aronia arbutifolia

Aronia arbutifolia, Red Chokeberry, ripens fruit later – usually early fall. The berries must not be as attractive to birds since they last well into winter. This species also tends to sucker more– creeping roots sprout stems and create a good-sized colony. This trait is an excellent way to control erosion or fill in an area with fewer plants. Fall color on Red Chokeberries tends to be bright red, scarlet and orange, and the plants typically grow 6-8’ tall and 3-5’ wide or more.

Aronia arbutifolia Brilliantissima

The variety we have in stock is ‘Brilliantissima,’ which flowers & fruits more heavily than the wild type. Both Chokeberries grow best in full sun, but are adaptable to a range of soils, from swampy to sandy. Growth will be faster in moist soils, and plants will tolerate growing in spots of light under shade trees, but may be leggy at the base (that’s okay, put some ferns down there!)

by Natalie Brewer, Howard County Master Gardener

The eastern white pine, Pinus strobus, is one of the most popular native plants in our region. And even though these trees are commonly used in both public and private gardens, there are still many reasons why you should consider adding these lovely trees to your landscape. One of the principal reasons is that the eastern white pine is really ‘for the birds’.

Historically, white pines were considered to be valuable for their straight trunks and soft wood. Eastern white pines were favored over all other timber to be used as masts for British sailboats. During colonial times, the British Royal Navy used to mark white pines with a broad arrow in order to reserve them to be logged for the masts of navy boats. White pines were so beloved by the King of England that he had long ships built specifically for the transport of these pine trunks across the ocean into England. White pines continue to be prized for their use in furniture, flooring, and paneling, because eastern white pines are knot-free, easy to cut, and easy to grow.

As a garden plant, white pine is no less a treasure for your landscape. White pines give a soft look to the garden and because they are evergreen, they give color and form during the gray winter months when little else is discernible against the barren landscape. The wispy long needles, always growing in sets of five, create a texture that is at once delicate and billowy but at the same time dense and solid.

Uses of the white pine for the landscape are numerous and indispensable. Besides giving structure and color in the winter, the evergreens fulfill many other functions. White pines can be successfully used as windbreaks, as hedges to screen an unattractive view, or as living fences. Electric companies recommend planting evergreens on the north side of homes in order to protect them from cold winter winds and thereby saving money on heating bills.

Even the needles that are shed by the pine are valuable and can be used as mulch in flower beds, around trees, in vegetable gardens, and in planting containers. Pine needles break down into the soil adding vital nutrients without making the soil acidic. So pine needle mulch can be used for any plantings. However, acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, hollies, andromedas, and camellias will particularly benefit from some pine needle mulch. And best of all, the mulch is from your own garden and is free.

As if these reasons are not enough to consider adding eastern white pine to your yard, white pines are also highly beneficial to wildlife, particularly birds. According to the Audubon Society, the large cones produced by white pines contain an abundant crop of nutritious seed. Nearly forty species of birds eagerly consume these seeds. Some birds, like the crossbills which are considered to be an irruptive species and will migrate from Canada to our area every few winters, favor white pine seeds over all other food sources. They are fascinating birds to watch! Nuthatches, chickadees, grosbeaks, blue jays, juncos, woodpeckers and brown thrashers all readily consume the seeds of eastern white pine cones.

In addition to being a critical provider of seeds, white pines are an excellent source of much needed nesting and roosting sites. During cold winds, hard rains, blistery snows, and scorching sunny weather, birds can find refuge in white pine’s velvety foliage. Hiding from hawks and other predators is another advantage that the white pine bestows to songbirds and other small mammals.

White pines are a favorite nesting site for mourning doves, purple finches and American robins. Many other birds and small mammals use the supple needles to line their nests. This year, I witnessed two Cooper’s hawks that were flying in and out of my white pines several times over the course of two days during the nesting season. They were tearing pieces off the ends of the branches with the soft needles still attached. And they were bringing these branches to their nest to form a soft mattress for their precious offspring. It was quite a site to see.

For the homeowner, eastern white pines are an easy-care plant. White pines can grow in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil. Once established, white pines need little or no care and can grow in moist or dry locations. Give it some space and eastern white pine will reward you for many years. Avoid siting the trees over driveways (cars) or over anything which may be damaged from sap, which will drip from injured or broken branches. Also, as many homeowners discovered this year, branches on mature trees may break under heavy snow load, so keep them away from wires and structures.

Considering the many positives of white pines for both gardeners and birds, if you have the space, plan on adding some to your landscape this year.

By Miri Talabac – Behnke Nurseries Woody Plant Buyer

Rosa 'Pink Knock Out'

Although they have been around for a couple of years, the Knock Out series of roses still knock my socks off. I am very impressed by their repeat blooming and great disease resistance. You can see wonderful specimens in our display plantings in front of our garden center in Beltsville, along our frontage on US Route One–where they are thriving! The Knock Out series offers several shades of pink (the original, sometimes called the “red” one, is a dark pink) plus two relatively new shades – a light yellow and pure white. They always sell out quickly, so get them while supplies last! Every time I see a rose garden that I love, the roses are always planted with perennials and evergreens to add seasonal interest.

The evergreens provide an excellent backdrop for the roses’ color and provide a good distraction from winter’s bareness; the perennials offer a plethora of color combinations and add interest in a range of flower heights and forms. My favorite matches include long-blooming companions such as Nepeta (Catmint), Gaura, Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower), Coneflower (Echinacea) and perennial grasses. I like to think of these sorts of groupings as a living bouquet.

Clematis 'Huldine' & Rosa 'Zephirine'

Lest we forget: there are thousands of other varieties of roses besides the Knock Outs. Although our best selection is in April and May, we still have an assortment of roses in stock (best selection at the Beltsville store) which includes two greats: rugosas and climbers.

Rosa 'American Pillar'

Rugosa roses are not hybridized and have kept their inborn resilience and tendency for clean foliage and fragrant, if simple, flowers. They are especially good for beach gardens and container gardening attempts due to their salt tolerance and degree of hardiness. Climbing roses don’t twine or cling like true vines, but I consider that to be a good thing – you don’t have to keep them from grabbing hold of anything that stands still for too long. Simply tie them up to whatever you want as they grow – hooks in a masonry wall, arbors over a walkway, obelisks and trellises, porch railings and window frames. They combine especially well with other climbers; I see them quite often with Clematis.

Rosa 'City of York'

Remember that roses thrive on a diet of full sun (minimum 6 hours) and rich, well-drained soil. Clay soils hold nutrients fairly well, but to improve drainage, add organic matter such as topsoil, compost or any form of composted manure.

Rosa 'New Dawn'

Feeding with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer does wonders, helping to provide nutrients required for reblooming, and Rose-tone is a great organic choice that’s gentle on the roots. This time of year, soil can dry out pretty quickly when baking in all that sun, so be sure to topdress with mulch, and water during dry spells, especially newly-planted roses.

Lace-Cap Hydrangea

What are white, fluffy and look as tantalizing as scoops of vanilla ice cream? They are probably the beautiful, pristine white blossoms of our native wild hydrangea.

Hydrangea arborescens, also known as smooth hydrangea, is one of our finer native shade plants. Growing to a height of approximately four feet tall and three feet wide, smooth hydrangea is an excellent plant that creates impact and drama in the shady border. In addition to being beautiful, the native species, Hydrangea arborescens, is a larval host plant to an exciting woodland beauty, the inimitable Hydrangea Sphinx moth.

A popular cultivated variety of our native hydrangea is the ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’). Unlike the species form, which is a lacecap-type hydrangea and generally available only from specialist native plant growers, ‘Annabelle’ has the classic puffball or “mophead” look and is easily found at garden centers.

Annabelle Hydrangea

With billowy white blooms reminiscent of fluffy meringue or big scoops of vanilla ice cream, ‘Annabelle’ is a superb addition to any garden. ‘Annabelle’ hydrangeas bloom in early summer, usually in June, and boast baseball-size flowers that will light up the gloomiest areas of the shade garden. Even after blooming, the flowers remain attractive for a long period of time while they fade to a soft tan and then become translucent as if they were made of crepe paper.

If you prefer a more subtle beauty, then give Hydrangea arborescens ‘White Dome’ a try. This cultivated variety has the lace-cap type blooms. Although the flowers are not as large as Annabelle, they are still elegant. The pristine white lacy flowers capture the light and seem to glow in the shade. I have both ‘Annabelle’ and ‘White Dome’ planted in different areas of my woodland garden and I cannot honestly say that I prefer one over the other. They are both outstanding in their own right. So if you have the room, I recommend you try both.

Adapted to capture the dim light of the woodland understory, the leaves of smooth hydrangea stay dark green and bold all season long. The broad leaves create a perfect backdrop to the glistening white flowers that stand out like sugar-coated confections on a green velvet background.

Smooth hydrangea fits in with nearly any style of garden, whether formal or relaxed, and looks good with nearly any other garden plant. Shade-loving plants with delicate foliage would complement the broad leaves of smooth hydrangea, so be sure to include Christmas fern, Solomon’s seal, goats beard and black cohosh into the border. [Editor’s note: best availability on these perennials at Behnke’s is in mid-spring.] Plants with white variegation in their leaves will nicely reflect and draw attention to the white blooms of smooth hydrangea. For a stunning combination, try planting variegated Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum) in front of smooth hydrangea.

In addition to being beautiful, smooth hydrangea is also easy to care for. The shrub likes moist soil and will illustrate its displeasure at dry soil by wilting its bold leaves. However, usually within minutes of a quick soak from the hose, the plants perk up and, once they are established, are able to withstand drier soils. A hearty helping of Leafgro, Complete Planting Mix, or compost mixed into the garden soil during planting, and a two-inch layer of mulch on top annually, will help keep plants healthy and roots cool and moist during the hot summer months.

If plants get leggy, branches can be trimmed to the ground in fall after the leaves drop off. Since smooth hydrangea produces its blossoms on new growth, you won’t have to worry about sacrificing flowers for form when pruning.

So no matter what style your garden is, smooth hydrangea is an easy native plant that will complement your shady borders and add a touch of delicious charm to your garden.

Natalie Brewer
Howard County Master Gardener

The Woods In My Back Yard – Part 1

Arisaema 'triphyllum'

Well, most of the spring wildflowers are finished, but you can still find a few here and there. Especially if you wander around off the beaten path (or paved path, as it were) and momentarily wonder just where the heck you are and where that path went…. I came across a colony of Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) that still had some flowers tucked underneath their leaves.

In the same area I found a few lone Green Dragons (Arisaema dracontium), a relative of Jack-in-the-Pulpit. It’s funny what you run across when you’re not looking for it. And that includes Wood Nettle, the native cousin of Stinging Nettle, which I learned the hard way really does sting when you brush your skin against the hairy stems. It took me a little while to figure out just what had gotten me, but at least the mild pain subsided after a few minutes and no other harm was done.

Sisyrinchium 'atlanticum'

Two other surprises found me at the start of that off-path adventure…Blue-Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium) and a few Bluets (Houstonia) in a wet grassy meadow. The meadow gifted me with a tick, too, running up my leg, which I immediately dispatched with a flick of the finger. Okay, it was a tick – a few frantic flicks, ‘cause those little suckers are practically two-dimensional in their flatness and have a study grip!

Smilacina 'racemosa'

The False Solomon’s Seals (Smilacina racemosa, a.k.a. Maianthemum racemosum) were both in and out of bloom, though none had quite set seed yet. The Trout Lilies I was hoping to nab some seed off of have already disappeared, dormant for another year. I also must have missed what few Showy Orchis (Galearis spectabilis) plants bloomed this year, as some had brown, crispy petal remnants.

I did see one good-sized clump that seemed to be setting seed, though, so with luck I’ll be back in time to collect a few. My seed collection for the year did start out well with a good crop of Bloodroot, so I’ll get started on prepping them for a winter chill in the ‘fridge. The sap is reddish in the root of the plant, but yellow in the seed pots; if you get enough on you it will stain skin brown for a day or so.

The seeds have an interesting clear, jelly-like protuberance which is attractive to ants – they cart off the seeds to their nest, eat only the bait, and the seed finds itself planted in an ideal environment. Reading up on this online you learn that many forest wildflowers have at least some ant dispersal of their seed.

Polystichum 'acrostichoides'

Fern colonies dot the woods, though I can only guess at some because trying to distinguish between all the different fronds of the native species can quickly leave you cross-eyed. I know Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) since it’s pretty distinctive with simplistic fronds and a dark green, thick substance.

Adiantum 'pedatum'

Others I assume are Lady Fern or their relatives (Athyrium); I even saw the clump of Northern Maidenhair (Adiantum pedatum) I found last year.

A few Rattlesnake Ferns (Botrychium virginianum) show up now and then in the more open spaces amongst the understory. They are curious little ferns, with one leafy frond and one fertile one that supposedly resembles a rattlesnake’s rattle because it’s nothing but spore capsules. Reading about their unusual life history in William Cullina’s Native Ferns, Mosses & Grasses gives you extra appreciation for these little troupers – they are fungal parasites, like many orchids, and take years to even send up their first leaf after germinating.

Sadly, I see too many invasive species in the woods around my neighborhood: Elaeagnus, Multiflora Rose, Honeysuckles and the occasional Japanese Barberry and Burning Bush. Japanese Stiltgrass carpets part of the woodland floor; Oriental Bittersweet rambles through shrubs and up into trees; Canada Thistle colonizes a roadside.

Hopefully we can find a way to curtail their spread and restore habitat to our forests. The difference in the diversity of wildlife is so apparent when you visit woodlands where the flora is less disturbed and the plant communities intact. Something may be better than nothing in suburbia, but I still lament the struggling natives and curse the exotic weeds encroaching on the yard.

The one consolation may be the fun of watching one weed smother another and seeing who wins. A mess of shrubbery next to one of our streets is a pile of Honeysuckle growing over Multiflora Rose growing over Bittersweet growing over Elaeagnus. Now that’s comedy.