This season I’ll be visiting with Greenbelt’s community gardeners every week to report on what they’re doing in the garden and what their gardens are producing that week.   As a newbie to growing edibles myself, I’m hoping to pass on the wisdom of these savvy gardeners to blog readers, while learning a bit myself. Actually, I expect to learn a lot.  These spaces are gardened by not just regular, knowledgeable gardeners but by experts who work at the nearby Beltsville Agricultural Research Center.

It’s also just fun to meet other dirty, sweaty, enthusiastic gardeners like myself in my new hometown of Greenbelt.

Chris and Liz Kleemeier in their garden plot

Sisters Chris and Liz Kleemeier have been gardening together here for three years, though they profess to still knowing very little.   This week their main tasks are watering (it feels more like July than May, doesn’t it?) and laying down straw to hold down the number of weeds that have to be removed.  (Straw they told me they bought from Behnkes, by the way, being placed around plants from Behnkes.)

In the foreground above are stalks of onion from last year that are too pretty to remove, I’m told.  I agree!

Rhubarb and Thyme

Two of their best-performing plants are rhubarb, on the left, which the gardeners hope to turn into pie, and the thyme blooming on the right, which they bought because they’re perennial and would overwinter, which they certainly did.

Cucumber Trellis

A trick that Chris and Liz are trying this year is installing a trellis to hold up their cucumbers.  That way, the cukes will be off the ground, so hopefully less bothered by pests and definitely easier to pick.

One gardener flies the flag for Memorial Day.

Above and below, the plot of Jude Maul is already fully mulched, but needs lots of water.  Also on Jude’s list of tasks this weekend was harvesting as much of this gorgeous lettuce as possible before it bolts in the early heat.

Above are two more robust growers in Jude’s garden.  On the left is a row of asparagus, now in its fourth year and ready to seriously produce this year – finally!  And on the right are the snap peas that Jude was snapping off from the vine and popping into his mouth when I arrived to interview him.

Elsewhere in the garden I noticed some plots just starting to be prepared for the season, like the one below showing some newly plowed rows.   Spying the old-fashioned plow below right, I was impressed with the low-tech authenticity on display – until I noticed the power version on the left.  Use a little gas to spare a middle-aged back?  I’m totally on board with that.

A choice of plows.

More about the Greenbelt Community Gardens
Information about the gardens (three of them) is nowhere to be found online but I’m told the huge plots go for just 10 bucks a year.  Most are fenced but for some, better fencing is required.  (Pesky critters include not just deer but the far sneakier rabbits, plus the occasional raccoon.  The biggest challenge here – and this is BIG – is the lack of water.   Yes, these dedicated gardeners have to carry in their own water!  Scuttlebutt is that maybe someone will try to do something about having the city provide water for this garden, but then again maybe not.   I assume that’s because most gardeners are happier digging in the dirt than knocking on the doors of government bureaucrats.

Hopefully, I’ll soon be reporting on what’s happening in MY community garden plot here.  I’m told that I’m first on the waiting list and because I’m only looking for a part-share (because the plots here are HUGE), I’m optimistic that I’ll have enough space to grow a few items this season.   So I’ll confess up to another purpose in visiting the garden frequently – to spy any claimed but unused plots that might be up for grabs if I bring their unused condition to the right person’s attention.  I’m sneaky that way.

Posted by Susan Harris

Daffodils and crocuses – just enjoy!

Vegetables and Herbs

Nonwoody Ornamental Plants

• This is a great time to plant cool-season pansies, Dianthus and snapdragons for color, but remember not to set out tender annuals (impatiens, marigolds, petunias, salvia, etc) until after the last frost date – the first week in May for the DC metro area.
• If you still have unplanted bulbs from last fall, they may still be worth planting. Inspect them carefully and only plant the best quality. Many may be in bad condition and not worth planting. If they were stored where it was warm, they likely will not flower this year but once getting established should do well next year.
• Time to clean up your ornamental beds!  Cut back your ornamental grasses and the stems of last year’s perennials.  Remove dead leaves, weed, and you’re ready to apply 1-2 inches of mulch this month, or later in the spring if you choose.  Don’t let garden debris (like dead leaves) stay on top of groundcovers and short perennials, as this can cause foliar diseases in the spring. Trim back English ivy that is invading walkways, turf and garden beds.  You can divide perennials as they poke up from the ground this month.
• If you start ornamental annuals from seeds, you can start them indoors in March -  5-6 weeks before they are planted outdoors.

Ponds

• You may be asking:  Hey, where are all the fish in my pond?  If so, watch out for Great Blue Herons, which can see the sun’s reflection off the water from a long way off.  Bird netting will keep them and any leaves out of the pond.  Our Larry Hurley reports that once he removes the leaves from his semi-shaded pond, it’s no longer bothered by the herons.
• So, use a net to remove leaves and debris with a net. This will help reduce problems with algae. Small ponds can be completely pumped out, cleaned and refilled. The sooner you can do this the better, because by April many species of amphibians will lay their eggs in the pond and you don’t want to disturb them. If eggs have already been laid be very careful and gentle when cleaning the pond to avoid harming them.

Lawn

• Now is the second best time to seed your lawn to cover thin or bare spots.  (The best is late August through October.)
• Also, spring is not the best time to apply fertilizer to lawn unless it’s weak and thin and you didn’t feed it last fall.  Fertilizing in the spring encourages rapid succulent growth that is more susceptible to attack by insects and disease.  If applied, use slow-release or organic fertilizer only.
• If you had a crabgrass problem last year consider applying a pre-emergent herbicide later this month when the forsythias are in bloom.  They tend to bloom about the same time that the soil is warm enough for crabgrass seeds to germinate.  Best control of crabgrass is achieved by splitting this herbicide treatment into two applications – first in mid-March in late March and the second half in mid-May.
• Chickweed, dead nettle, henbit and other broadleaf winter annual weeds are starting to grow again at this time – they germinated last fall and were dormant throughout the winter. They can be treated with a labeled broadleaf weed herbicide when they’re more actively growing later this month or throughout April. Small infestations can be pulled by hand. However, fall herbicide applications when these weeds are germinating often produce better control.
• Don’t do any aerating of your compacted lawn during the wet spring conditions; digging and disturbing the soil then will just make it worse.  Wait for it to dry out.
• This is the time to sharpen your lawn mower blades and service your mower. Dull blades tear turfgrass and can lead to damage and disease problems. Remember to sharpen your mower blade a few times throughout the mowing season.

Indoor Plants

• Now is a good time to begin re-potting and dividing houseplants that are outgrowing their containers, moving them to the next-larger pot.  Use only lightweight soilless potting mixes, never garden soil.   If a houseplant is already in a very large container and you can’t move it up to a larger one, you can remove the plant and prune its roots. Fill the outside with fresh potting medium. Pruning some of the roots may set the plant back a little but it will recover and it will have more space for the roots and improve pot drainage.
• As new growth appears, resume fertilizing houseplants on a monthly basis.  Also gradually increase watering to the regular spring-summer amount, remembering that overwatering is the most common cause of houseplant death.
• Keep an eye out for signs of pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects. If addressed promptly, these nonchemical methods work: spray of plain water, insecticidal soap spray, or with the most tenacious (like mealybugs) sometimes an alcohol swab and Q-tip.

  

Wildlife

• Empty bird boxes of old nests.
• Many birds are now actively scouting our landscapes for places to nest this spring, so this is a good time to put up a birdhouse (nest box) to encourage nesting. Some bird species that use birdhouses (nest boxes) are bluebirds, purple martins, tree swallows, and wrens.
• Apply deer repellents as your perennials begin to grow. Deer will begin to switch to their warm weather feeding patterns (from shrubs to more tender plants), and repellents applied early on are the most effective.

Final Words from Larry Hurley

• If you have pathways that are mulch covered, March is a good time to add more mulch.
• And his favorite tip?  “Call in sick on nice days, and spend time in the outdoors. Shop first.”

Photo credits: daffodils, crocus,  pansy,   tree swallow.

Whole Garden

Gardens need water in the spring, which is usually plenty wet but not in 2012!  So DO water and the best watering technique (except for watering seeds) is deeply, not frequently.   We have more about proper watering techniques here.

Edibles

• If you are growing plants from seed, don’t oversow. For fine seed, mix it with sand so it is easier to spread over a larger area.

• Don’t start warm weather plants too early. Peppers and basil, and to a lesser extent tomatoes—hate cold weather. Wait until May and a forecast for consistently warm weather before planting these.

• Plant radishes now. They grow in cool weather (the flavor is more mild) and they grow fast–you can harvest the first ones about a month after sowing. They are fun for kids because you get results fast. Some people are known to eat radishes, too.

• Prepare soil for growing summer vegetables by adding organic matter. (Chickity Doo Doo is a favorite of one Behnkes staffer). And weed your asparagus patch if you haven’t done it already (March is the best time to do it.)

Perennials and Flower Borders

• If you didn’t clean-up your borders in March, do it now. (Gotta remove weeds now while they’re still small and haven’t flowered yet.)

• Cut back all ornamental grasses to 6-12″ if you haven’t done it already, and don’t wait any more. It may already be difficult to cut off the dead leaves without also harming the new ones.

• Plant, divide or move perennials – it’s now or never! Okay sure, you can still do it in May, especially planting new ones, but it’s best to get all this jostling around of perennials done before it gets hot, and it gets hot in Maryland soon – certainly by May.

Forsythia (L) and Quince (R)

Trees and Shrubs

• Feed roses this month and monthly through July, and Rose Tone is a popular choice.

• It’s a terrific time to transplant or plant new trees and shrubs – both the evergreen and the deciduous types.

• Prune back early-blooming shrubs (as desired) that have finished blooming, such as forsythia, quince, witchhazel, winterhazel and wintersweet.

• Prune your late-blooming hydrangeas now, if they need it (to reduce the size). That means H. paniculata types, like ‘Tardiva’ and H. arborescens types like ‘Annabelle.’  Don’t touch your moptop or lacecap hydrangeas, though, or you’ll prune away this year’s blooms.

• Prune your roses if you didn’t do it in March (preferred) and do it SOON. and Miri Talabac says, “A rosarian who used to work here always recommended a dab of Elmer’s glue on the cut cane to discourage borers and prevent cracking from water seepage in freezing weather.”

• Cut back butterfly bushes and Caryopteris to 8-16 inches or so.
• After they’ve flowered is the perfect time to prune azaleas, which probably really need it (unless you’re on a regular yearly schedule of maintenance and rejuvenation pruning).

• Watch for tent caterpillars in cherry trees especially, and if you spot one, grab and destroy their tent with a stick. That can mean simply opening it up to the birds, or tossing it into a plastic bag you put out for the trash.

• Watch for viburnum-beetle egg cases and prune them away before the larvae hatch.

• As the soil warms up, it’s a good time to apply organic fertilizers like Holly-tone (for acid-loving plants) and Plant-tone. Another option is to apply a top dressing of compost around the base of the trees or shrubs.

• As fruit trees begin to bud and leaf out, now’s the time for preventative pest and disease spraying to start. Many pesticides/fungicides suitable for edible plants will require multiple applications, and bud-break is the starting point to begin attacking fungal spores and insect eggs before they get settled onto or into your trees. Follow package instructions, since each product is different, as are the correct rates of use for specific trees at different stages of growth.”

Lawn

• April is a great time to seed, overseed or sod the lawn. (Just be sure you’ve waited the recommended number of weeks since you’ve applied pre-emergent crabgrass killer – or it’ll kill your grass seeds, too.) Experts are often heard recommending overseeding because it’s probably the MOST needed lawn maintenance job that’s ignored by the MOST homeowners. Having a thick lawn is the BEST way to prevent weeds!

• If your lawn is filled with moss, it needs lime and now’s a good time to apply it.

• If you’ve been feeding your lawn regularly and overseeding, too, it probably doesn’t need to be fed again until the fall. If your lawn is thin and weedy, it may not be getting enough fertilizer and spring is the second-best time to feed the lawn – with an organic or slow-release fertilizer, or simply a top dressing of compost. Overfertilization of lawns, especially in the spring, is a HUGE problem for the Chesapeake Bay, so read up and take care!

• And now’s a good time to get your lawn mower ready for the season.

For the Critters

• Migrating hummingbirds will reach our area soon, so be sure to clean your feeders and stock up on nectar solution. Remember to only use soap and water to clean the feeder and be sure to clean it regularly during the season to keep your visitors healthy.

• DC Master Gardener Barbara Dinsmore suggests making your own hummingbird food.  One cup sugar, 4 cups water;  boil for a few minutes and store unused portion in refrigerator until needed.

• Encourage nesting birds to stay by planting flowers nearby that attract small insects, the necessary diet for baby hummingbirds.

Protection FROM the Critters

• Apply deer repellents now. Deer are switching over from winter food sources to spring summer food sources. If deer ran personals, they would be ISO nice tender hostas, daylilies, and other emerging sprouts. Once they set a trail, they tend to return to the same spot on a regular basis. If you apply repellent now, and they find your plants unpalatable, you’ll have less of a problem later on. Read the label, and remember that most repellents smell…well, repellent. Have mercy on your neighbors and don’t spray on a day when they are going to have windows open or have the boss over for cocktails on the deck.

• Now’s the best time to get a start on controlling slugs, and Sluggo is everyone’s favorite product.

More from DC Master Gardener Barbara Dinsmore

• Be sure to visit McCrillis Gardens in Bethesda. You can picnic there and take your dog on a leash.

• Don’t blow all debris out of your gardens – leave a little bit of stuff for nesting birds.

Gardening Basics: Simply Put
Save Those Leaves!

Before your rake all of the rest of the leaves to the curb, consider a compost pile. People become obsessed with composting, with bins, thermometers, turning the pile, adding this and that…but, if you have other things to worry about, you can still turn your leaf pile into “garden gold”.

Read the rest of this entry

By Miri Talabac, Woody Plant Dept. Manager, Beltsville
From Behnkes GardeNews Fall 2008 Newsletter

Many a great garden delights your senses…the sights and scents of colorful flowers and the textures of leaves, the singing of birds, frogs and crickets that move in for the bounty…but what about taste–simple edibility? While edible gardening may conjure up images of orchards, vineyards, or full-fledged farms, it certainly doesn’t have to be that extensive or monothematic.
Even the foundation or structure of the garden–trees, shrubs and vines–can serve both aesthetic and productive functions.

Many have showy flowers and brilliant fall colors. Some are rarely bothered by pests and diseases–especially the varieties derived from native species. In fact, mixing fruiting plants with other ornamentals, rather than keeping them in one area, can reduce disease blights and pest outbreaks. Just as with an ornamental plant, in order to select the best candidates, pay attention to how much sun the area receives (most of these plants need a lot of sun for health and productivity) and soil conditions, plus how much space is available.

Most fruit trees have showy spring flowers and, due to common grafting practices, stay dwarfed and manageable while still producing respectable crops. There are trees small enough to keep on a patio in a large pot, like dwarf peaches, or large enough to cast some shade, like persimmons. Nut trees such as walnut, pecan, hickory and chestnut grow to be large canopy trees that provide a great resource for wildlife and cast shade to cool the house and garden.

Smaller by nature, fruiting shrubs will tuck into garden spaces more easily than dwarf trees and can be even easier to care for. The most well known is probably the blueberry, and with good reason. Spring flowers, vibrant fall foliage and sunset-hued winter stems make them year round attractions in the garden. Raspberries and blackberries can sometimes be thuggish if left to their own devices, rooting about the bed, but their thorns can make a great security barrier. To free up more garden space and make it easier on yourself at harvest time, tie them up to a fence or trellis…the fruit will stay cleaner and be easier to reach. Some new blackberry varieties are more upright growing and thornless.

Fruit bearing vines are a special treat, since you can train them on practically anything convenient in the yard. Fence, arbor, pergola, trellis, wall, an old tree, a deck rail, an old swingset, a motionless sunbather…you get the idea. Grapes are certainly the most recognized and long-grown of these plants. While vineyards have perfected the art and science of grape-growing with cordons and tying and the like, worry not–the process doesn’t have to be so complicated. You needn’t aim for flawlessness, and the plants will perform admirably with less meticulous care.

For the more exotic, some kiwi vines will produce fruit here, but despite public interest they are uncommon due to somewhat invasive tendencies. They may be better suited to city or roof top gardens, where their spread will be limited. One overlooked candidate for a tasty twiner is the passion flower. Passiflora incarnata is native to the southern Chesapeake region. While not always easy to find, they add a welcome flair of the tropical to the garden and the palate.

While selection will vary throughout the year, fall is a great time to plant these trees, shrubs and vines. The soil will still have its summer warmth for good root growth and the cooling air is less stressful to the plants as they prepare for dormancy. With spring and fall deliveries, look for a wide variety of fruiting woody plants.

Common fruit trees offered include peach, nectarine, apricot, apple, cherry, pear, plum, persimmon and fig. Recently we have added some pawpaw and experimented with a few quince, jujube, English walnut and Chinese chestnut. Our regular flowering tree selection includes serviceberry, a native becoming more popular as it produces quantities of sweet berries in early summer. There are shrubby and tree forms of this plant that make great additions to the edible landscape.

Our fruiting shrubs commonly include blueberry, raspberry and blackberry. Occasionally we dabble in more marginal options, like cranberry, currant and gooseberry that prefer cooler summers, or dwarf pomegranate that prefers warmer winters (look for these in the spring instead). Some of the species and native wild roses produce tasty and nutritious hips (seed pods) if their flowers are not removed. Several varieties of the native fox grape, Vitis labrusca, make up most of our fruiting climber selection, with occasional European varieties for those interested in trying their hand at wine-making. Passion flower will be stocked when we can find some, which will most likely be in spring.

Even some non-woody edibles come in the early deliveries of spring and are worth keeping an eye out for: asparagus, rhubarb and strawberries make an early appearance and sell out fast. Asparagus is best left to grow for a couple of seasons before you begin harvest, and the fine, airy foliage texture they provide is well worth scattering about the garden like baby’s breath in a bouquet. Rhubarb makes a great statement with its large leaves and is a great addition for visual impact alone. Strawberries are wonderfully nostalgic spilling out of strawberry jars on a patio or deck, but can be incorporated into the garden mixed with other groundcovers, added to mixed annual hayracks or to window boxes with herbs. They can be more short-lived compared to other fruiting plants, but this gives you more flexibility in placement and experimentation with different varieties.

The most beneficial element of this whole endeavor is, of course, the easily harvestable, tasty, nutritious, money-saving benefit of edible fruits, berries and nuts. You can grow crops as organically as you’d like; there are no gas costs in getting them to your kitchen (if they make it that far!); no bruises from shipping or lackluster flavor from under-ripe disappointments. You can’t get any better than fresh-picked, fruit from your own garden.

Miri Talabac, Woody Plant Dept. Manager, Behnke Nursery Beltsville